Island hopping in Hawaii is an absolute must. I mean, you don’t fly halfway around the world just to hang out on one single island. Come on!! Nothing against O‘ahu, but it’s time to head to the airport and jump on a Hawaiian Airlines flight to the next island.
In my case, I decided to head west first – to the northernmost island of Hawaii: Kaua‘i. The short flight took less than 45 minutes, but it’s worth saying a few words about the airline. Hawaiian Airlines started operations back in 1929 and is now the 11th largest airline in the United States. Since 2003, it has also been America’s most punctual airline.
For Hawaiians, flying between islands is pretty much the same as taking a bus from Cologne to Frankfurt. No big deal – just a means to an end for hopping from one island to the next. And believe it or not, even on these short flights, service is a big deal. At one point, the flight attendant strolled down the aisle holding a cardboard box and casually asked if we’d like some water or juice.
Although I just can’t resist making this remark: calling this liquid “juice” really does a disservice to any real juice, considering how transparent it is. It’s basically some kind of fruit-flavored water—or something like that. Oh, and slightly colored, just so you don’t confuse it with actual water. Suddenly, an announcement comes on: we’re already starting our descent, and just like that, Kaua’i comes into view.
- Līhuʻe Airport; 2. Hilton Garden Inn Kauai Wailua Bay ; 3. Barking Sands Beach; 4. Waimea Canyon; 5. Secret Beach; 6. Kalalau Trail; 7. Kipu Ranch
For the first time, I arrive at a Hawaiian island in daylight — and right away, the difference between Kaua’i and O’ahu is striking, even from the air. The airport is noticeably smaller and has a much more provincial feel, and there’s no big city skyline like in Honolulu to welcome us. Without even having set foot on the island yet, I could already tell from my window seat that this place is going to be completely different from everything I experienced on O’ahu. After landing, we quickly collect our luggage thanks to the short distances — and just 20 minutes later, we’re already driving away from the airport in our new rental car.
The traffic we’re about to encounter here is super relaxed and absolutely nothing like what we experienced on Oʻahu. Our hotel, the Hilton Garden Inn Kauai Wailua Bay, is just 6 kilometers away. It’s tucked away in the middle of lush greenery and serves as the perfect base for us to start our daily adventures over the next few days.
After the packed schedule of the past few days, we’ve decided to take it easy today. Once we’ve checked in, we head to the island’s capital, Līhuʻe. Okay, calling it a “capital” might be a bit of a stretch. We’re talking about a town with just over 6,000 residents. So “small American town” probably paints a more realistic picture.
Still, you’ll find all the staples Americans hold dear: Walmart, Burger King, Mickey D’s, Pizza Hut, Starbucks — all present and accounted for.
After a quick visit to Walmart, we wind down the evening back at the hotel.
Attack of the Killer Chickens 🐔
Oh God, what time is it? 5:51 AM!!
My phone alarm was set for 6, but one thing became very clear after my first night on Kaua’i: no alarm clock is needed here. Because on this island, it’s not the people who rule the roost — it’s the chickens.
Cock-a-doodle-doo… cock-a-doodle-doo… COOOOOCK-A-DOOOODLE-DOOOOOOOO!!!
The entire island is under siege by wild feathered tyrants. And our hotel? No exception. They strut around the grounds like they own the place, crowing in chaotic chorus at full volume. Honestly, I think most people — myself included — don’t realize that this island is basically one giant chicken coop.
Wherever you go — even on the parking lot of the island’s only Walmart or Burger King — a proud rooster and his hens are already there, chilling like locals. Free-range madness everywhere. It drives you insane, especially since you really don’t need an alarm clock here. At precisely 6 AM, the feathery alarm units go off.
But hey, there’s one upside: everyone is awake. That’s also why everyone here goes to bed so early. 🙂
If time moves slowly on Oʻahu, then on Kaua’i time doesn’t exist at all — here, you live by the rhythm of the chickens. Everyone already knows the night will definitely end at 6 AM.
When I asked about it at the reception, I found out that in the early 90s, a hurricane named Iniki tore through Kaua’i and completely destroyed countless chicken farms — especially those breeding fighting roosters. (Yes, cockfighting is still a thing in Hawaii.) When the hurricane hit, the roofs vanished and so did the chickens.
And what did they do with their newfound freedom? They lived it up — and multiplied.
It was the Invasion of the Crazy Chickens!
Ever since, the 63,000 island residents either love them or hate them. The problem? No natural predators. No mongooses, nothing. But don’t think you can just cook them — they’re tough as old boots. There’s even a legendary local recipe:
“Put the rooster in a pot with a lava rock. Once the rock softens, let the meat cook for another two hours.”
For tourists, though, the wild chickens have become an iconic part of the Kaua’i experience — now printed on T-shirts, mugs, and stickers across the island.
Wait, where were we?
Ah right — 6 AM, and the night is officially over. Time to rise and shine, courtesy of our feathered terrorists.
An Unforgettable Experience – The Helicopter Tour
But today I don’t even care, because we have to be up anyway — our first big highlight is waiting. At 7:30 AM, it’s showtime at Safari Helicopters.
We’re doing a full-circle flight around the entire island.
And for me? It’s my very first time in a helicopter.
An absolute next-level experience — especially with this breathtaking scenery laid out before us.
Kaua’i, you’re already blowing my mind.
The Helicopter Adventure Begins
It all starts at the airport. After a sweeping turn over the runway heading south, we pass the harbor entrance of Līhuʻe and soar westward over lush green valleys. Once we cross the Kaumualiʻi Highway, the island’s rugged landscape and raw nature truly come to life.
Under a clear blue sky and bright sunshine, the helicopter glides gently over the terrain. Suddenly, it tilts left and dives toward a narrow gorge. It feels like we’re flying so close that the rotor blades could brush against the towering cliffs of gray lava rock. If we were to crash here, no one would ever know—this part of Kaua’i seems utterly deserted. As we crest the next ridge, it feels as if we’re gaining altitude, but it’s merely an illusion. Our height stays the same—it’s the land that dramatically drops beneath us.
I’m speechless. My mouth hangs open as I stare down the sheer cliffs of the legendary Nā Pali Coast, plunging a thousand meters straight down like knives into the Pacific. These are the 25 kilometers made famous by Jurassic Park, showcasing the raw power of Mother Nature and forming the tallest sea cliffs in the Pacific. Razor-sharp ridges and deep valleys dominate the view, occasionally broken up by narrow, hidden beaches.
The helicopter heads out over the ocean, tracing the coast. The view is humbling, burning itself into my memory forever. Anyone visiting Kaua’i without taking a scenic flight will never truly grasp the island’s full beauty. After the dramatic cliffs, we head back east, flying along the coastline. We pass dreamlike beaches, though massive waves crowned in white foam crash down relentlessly, making swimming nearly impossible.
All too soon, it’s time to return. The 45 minutes flew by in an instant. 🙂 Since we flew so early—thanks to Kaua’i’s famously unpredictable weather—it’s barely past 9 a.m. when we get back to our car.
Barking Sands Beach – The Isolated Paradise
Because you can’t drive all the way around the island due to the Nā Pali Coast, our next destination is the westernmost point on the southern side. From Līhuʻe Airport, we follow the only main road—Kaumualiʻi Highway—through Kalaheo, Eleele, Waimea, and Kekaha, until we reach the end of the road. There’s a rocket launch site here—and a bomb-cratered path called Lower Saki Mana Road. After about 10 kilometers, it leads us to one of the most beautiful beaches on the island: Barking Sands Beach.
Luckily, we have an SUV. Still, I’m shocked at how recklessly many tourists speed along this rough road in sedans—or even how a sweet elderly couple in a tiny compact car just flies through the potholes like it’s nothing. As if to say: “Who cares about the car—it’s not mine!”
But if you take your time and don’t drive like a maniac, you’ll be rewarded with a stretch of beach that’s truly top-notch. The difficult access ensures solitude. I counted maybe 15 people scattered along the vast shoreline—which practically feels like having it to yourself.
There’s a catch, though. The waves here are massive and powerful, making swimming a dangerous, almost suicidal venture. It’s a paradise that can turn deadly in a heartbeat.
Waimea Canyon – The Grand Canyon of the Pacific
On our way back east, don’t miss the chance to detour north at Waimea. The road ahead may be long and winding, but it’s absolutely worth it. Awaiting at the end is a natural wonder once dubbed by Mark Twain as the Grand Canyon of the Pacific—today known as Waimea Canyon. Stretching 16 kilometers long, 1 to 1.6 kilometers wide, and plunging up to 1,200 meters deep, it offers a jaw-dropping panorama and a powerful reminder of nature’s scale.
But to reach the viewpoint, you’ll need to conquer a steep, curvy road climbing from sea level. Don’t underestimate the elevation gain—up here, strong winds and a noticeable temperature drop await as you gaze into the depths of the canyon.
Weather Chaos on Kaua’i – Planning Is Futile
Kaua’i’s weather plays by its own rules—changing every two minutes, it seems. One moment, the sun is blazing; the next, it’s raining. Then suddenly, the sky clears again like it never happened. You can’t help but feel the weather is mocking you: Go ahead, plan something. Let’s see how that works out!
It’s like battling Goliath—the weather god. 🙂
This unpredictable climate makes activity planning incredibly tricky. A catamaran tour I’d booked to explore the Nā Pali Coast was canceled by the operator on the same day due to dangerously high surf. I had looked forward to it for so long—and just like that, the weather pulls the plug. There’s nothing to do but shrug it off. Shit happens.
At least the rest of the day was calm and relaxing.
Nā Pali Coast – A Dream Hike with a Thrill Factor
After exploring everything south of the hotel, today we’re heading north—passing through Wailua, Kealia, Anahola, Kilauea, Hanalei, and Wainiha—all the way to the far end of the island. This is Kauai, home to the wettest spot on Earth.
As we drive further, the vegetation becomes greener, denser, and more powerful. This is the true jungle of Kauai. Then suddenly, just past Wainiha, the road narrows—and you can feel we’re nearing the end. The few tourists we meet out here all have the same goal: the famous and infamous Kalalau Trail. This trail stretches 11 miles and ends at the beautiful Kalalau Beach, which can only be reached by hiking or boat.
However, to hike the entire trail, you need a permit—and they’ve already been fully booked for the next six months. Like many others, we have to settle for the “day hiker” option, which means we’re only allowed to go as far as Hanakapiai—about 3 miles in, and of course, 3 miles back.
And then it begins.
Right from the start, a naturally formed stone staircase leads us uphill for quite a while. It’s never really a clear path—more like a chain of changing surfaces. But they all have one thing in common: they’re wet and slippery. In parts, the trail runs precariously close to the edge. Once you’ve climbed high enough, the view opens up—and it’s breathtaking. Towering cliffs drop into the roaring ocean below, where waves crash against the rocks with deafening force. The farther you walk from the parking lot, the more you feel like you’re melting into nature.
I would have loved to walk the full 11 miles—because later on, it gets even more adventurous. Some sections of the trail are so narrow that a single misstep could mean falling to your death. Fortunately, all hikers seem to have made it past that section unharmed. Their top tip: always lean into the cliff wall when passing the narrow spots.
Kipu Ranch – The Adventure Just Outside the City
Driving west from the airport through Līhuʻe, we soon turn onto a side road just past the town limits. It leads us to the remote Kipu Ranch. Upon arrival, we check in at a small cabin, handle the paperwork, and quickly get talked into a $15 insurance policy. Why? Well—just in case we wreck the vehicle and don’t want to go into debt. Turns out, it wasn’t such a bad idea after all.
After two warm-up laps on a training course—complete with hill climbing and emergency braking—we’re ready to go.
And we’re off—speeding past lush green meadows. For the first time, I spot cattle grazing in the open fields. After a long, flat stretch, the mountains begin to rise in the distance. Playtime is over—we leave the paved road behind and dive into cratered, dusty trails full of bumps and jolts. Thankfully, we were handed orange bandanas at check-in, which now serve as dust masks in the choking air.
But the red, dusty tracks aren’t the end of it. After rolling down a steep hill, we enter a dense forest where muddy, waterlogged trails try to spin us out at every turn. Then suddenly, we’re out again—cruising across open prairie surrounded by emerald mountains. This very landscape once served as the backdrop for blockbusters like Jurassic Park and Outbreak.
It’s an absolute blast! We’ve got the best and funniest tour guides — and we’ve just learned that pretty much everything on this island is privately owned by the powerful Robinson family. They started buying up land on Kaua’i quite early on, and by now, they own most of the island. The piece of land we’re currently speeding across? Yep, that’s theirs too.
Then we make a quick stop by the river, where the tour guides tell us that this exact spot is where Harrison Ford, aka Indiana Jones, swung into the water on a rope at the beginning of Raiders of the Lost Ark — fleeing from the cannibals. Right there, a seaplane was waiting for him, and that’s where the iconic snake scene took place. The pilot’s so-called “pet.”
At that moment, we’re given the chance to grab the rope ourselves and swing over the water. Of course we do it! After a total of four hours, we head back to Kipu Ranch. On the last stretch — where we really get to push the gas one more time — it suddenly starts pouring rain. FUCK!! That was the moment all the dust on our clothes turned into wet, sticky mud. Even though we looked like little piglets by the end, the tour was amazing — super fun, informative, and full of variety.
Since we want to spend our last night on Kaua’i totally relaxed, we enjoy the evening at the hotel and head to the airport the next morning without any stress. Time to say goodbye and tackle the third island: Big Island is waiting!!
My Conclusion
Kaua’i is absolutely worth the trip. No exaggeration — this is where you’ll find the real, unspoiled Hawaii. Endless beaches, amazing hotels, and nature that leaves nothing to be desired. A helicopter tour and a hike along the Na Pali Coast are absolute musts for any visitor.
So, Mahalo for reading — and on we go to the next Hawaiian island adventure!
